INGREDIENT GLOSSARY

ALOE BARBADENSIS LEAF EXTRACT: soothing to skin, may aid in healing of burns

AMINO ACIDS: found in all proteins in the body. Water binding agents. Some have anti-oxidants benefits, some wound healing.

BUTYLPARABEN: in the group of parabens, used as a preservative. Japanese standard.

CARNOSINE: composed of amino acids. Anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant properties.

CETEARYL ALCOHOL: fatty alcohol used as an emollient, thickener, emulsifier. Usually derived naturally, as in coconut fatty alcohol.

CETEARETH-20: used to thicken an d keep ingredients together and stable.

CHOLINE: part of the vitamin B complex. Present in many other biological molecules.

CITRIC ACID: Derived from citrus. Used to adjust pH of products to keep them from being too alkaline.

COCAMIDOPROPYL BETAINE: Considered on the more gentle surfactants.

COLLAGEN: gives skin it’s structure

COPPER: aids in synthesis of collagen and elastin.

DIMETHYL MEA ((DMEA): helps to keep cell membrane intact. Is thought to stimulate production of acetycholine (a neurotransmitter).

DISODIUM EDTA: (EDTA) stabilizer, a chelating agent. Stops unwanted chemical changes in products.

DMDM HYDANTOIN: Formaldehyde-releasing preservative.

ELASTIN: gives skin it’s flexibility

EMU OIL: better than mineral oil for moisturization and penetration. Excellent emollient.

ENZYMES: bromelain, from pineapple or papain, from papaya, enzymes (proteases) are proteins that function as biological catalysts. The accelerate chemical reactions in a cell. Very unstable pH.  Limited, if any, research showing that enzymes perform as well or are as stable as AHA or BHA.

FOLIC ACID: part of the Vitamin B complex.

GLYCOLIC ACID:  AHA (Alpha Hydroxy) Therapy for photo-damaged skin. Normalizes overthickened skin.  Derived from sugar cane. Smallest molecule in AHA family consisting of 2 carbons. Promotes sloughing of dead skin cells. Continued use aids in the regeneration of fresh cells. Penetrates into the sebaceous follicles clearing out dead cells responsible for causing the condition of acne.

GLYCOSPHINGOLIPIDS: natural moisturizing factor. Coats cell walls and hold water content in place.

HEDRA HELIX (IVY) EXTRACT: astringent

HEXYL LAURATE: skin conditioning agent and emollient

HYALURONIC ACID: moisturizer and binding agent.

KAOLIN HECTORITE: natural claylike mineral used for absorption

MAGNESIUM ALUMINUM SILICATE: used as a thickening agent

MENTHOL: derived from peppermint

O.R.A.C. (oxygen radical absorbance capacity): ability to absorb free radicals. Ours is 3666 units compared to typical anti-oxidant capacity of 500 units.

PEG-20: compound that binds, stabilizer, emollient, surfactant

PEPTIDES: short chain of amino acids. Regulates activity of other molecules. Called “botox” in a jar.

PHOSPHATIDYLCHOLINE: active ingredient found in lecithin. water binding agent. Absorbs well without feeling greasy.

PHYLLENTHUS EMBLICA FRUIT EXTRACT: best anti-oxidant known to man. Anti-inflammatory and anti-mutagent.

PINUS PINASTER BARK EXTRACT: (pycnogenol) powerful antioxidant, free radical scavenger.

POMEGRANATE EXTRACT – ELLAGIC ACID: inhibits enzymes that damage DNA strands. Protects against the breakdown of skin lipids.

SALICYLIC ACID: BHA or Beta Hydroxy. Derivative of aspirin. Anti-inflammatory. Antimicrobial properties. Improves thickness, barrier functions, and collagen production.

Can penetrate the pore and exfoliate inside the pore as well on the surface.

SODIUM LAURYL SULFATE: a detergent usually derived from coconut. In low levels not toxic to skin

SQUALANE: emollient that has antioxidant and immune-stimulation properties

SULFUR: anti-bacterial agent.

SURFACTANT: agent that degreases and emulsifies soil

TETRAHEXYLDECYL ASCORBATE: stable form of Vitamin C

TITANIUM DIOXIDE:  inert mineral. Protects skin from UVA and UVB radiation with no risk of skin irritation.

TOCOPHERYL ACETATE: Vitamin E. anti-oxidant superstar!

UREA: water-binding and exfoliating properties for skin.

VITAMIN A:  retinoic acid. aids epidermal cell membrane. Stops activity of collagen damaging metalloproteinage enzymes. Good for skin elasticity and photo induced damage. Soften fine lines, fades age spots and controls sebum production. Increases epidermal thickness. 8-mg/ml of vitamin A in skin deep products.

VITAMIN C: a tissue building protein called collagen dictates aging skin. Attacks collagen-breaking enzyme called collagenase.  Antioxidant.  Keeps moisture levels at optimal levels.

VITAMIN K:  researchers at New York University have found that vit K may help turn around three skin conditions…rosacea, spider veins, and dark circles under eyes. We add green tea and aloe for anti-inflammatory benefits.

WITCH HAZEL: can have potent anti-oxidant properties. Can be irritating to skin if used repeatedly.

ZINC OXIDE: thickener, whitener,  has sun protection properties